Msts: Romania

Inside the carriages, silence fell. No phones glowed. No one whispered. The bride stopped crying. In the blackness, the only thing that existed was the clack-clack-clack of the wheels on the joints and the smell of coal smoke and wet moss.

Andrei drained his țuică , tapped the pressure gauge, and whispered to the old Resicza: "Not bad for a dead railway, eh, girl? Not bad at all."

The speed never exceeded 25 kilometers per hour. This was the secret of the Mocănița : it was slow enough that you could see the fox pause on the embankment to watch you pass. Slow enough that a boy on a horse kept pace with the last carriage for a full kilometer, laughing. Slow enough that the old woman in the signal box at Prislop Pass had time to wave, then light a candle, then wave again. msts romania

Andrei pulled the whistle cord. The sound— uuuuu-huuuuu —rolled through the gorge like a wounded stag. The pistons clanked. The wheels slipped once, bit into the steel, and they were moving.

When they burst out the other side, the sun had broken through. The monasteries of Bucovina—Voronet, with its famous blue; Humor, with its reds—stood on the hillside like toys. The teenagers gasped. The old man started the cimpoi drone. And the bride, looking at the fresco of the Last Judgment on the monastery wall, suddenly smiled. Inside the carriages, silence fell

"Măria!" Andrei shouted down the side of the train. "We need a glass of țuică ! The bride has decided to live!"

Then came the tunnel.

Inside the three wooden carriages, the world had slipped sideways. In the first car, a group of teenagers dressed as iele —the ghostly fairies of Romanian folklore—used their phone lights to cast eerie shadows on the wood-paneled ceiling. In the second, an old man in a sheepskin hat was tuning a cimpoi (bagpipe). In the third, a bride—fleeing her own wedding in Vatra Moldoviței because she’d seen her groom kiss the maid of honor—sat crying into a handkerchief embroidered with the word Vis (Dream).