It was the freedom of having no plans. And then comes August 31st. That specific melancholic gold.
Here is to .
Lunch lasts three hours. It is a sprawling, lazy affair involving a tomato salad with shallots, a slab of pâté , a wedge of runny Camembert, and a discussion about whether the neighbor’s hydrangeas are looking particularly blue this year. Then comes the sieste . The world goes silent from 2 PM to 4 PM. Shutters close. Even the flies seem to nap. Les Grandes Vacances
It is the smell of sunscreen and chlorine. It is the sound of the cigales (cicadas) buzzing so loud you think your ears might bleed. It is the scab on your knee from falling off a bike you haven’t ridden since last summer. It is learning to swim in the sea, or catching goujons (minnows) in the river with a net made of an old t-shirt and a wire hanger.
P.S. If you need me in August, you know where to find me. Don’t hold your breath for a reply. It was the freedom of having no plans
You start to see the Cahiers de vacances (vacation workbooks) coming out of the bottom of the bag, half-finished. The rentrée looms on the horizon like a grey cloud. You pack the car, shaking the sand out of the towels one last time, promising to keep the slow pace alive once you get back to the city.
If you’ve never lived through a French summer, you might think a vacation is a week in July, a long weekend in August, or a frantic sprint to an airport. But Les Grandes Vacances is a different beast entirely. It is a slow, deliberate unplugging from the matrix of normal life. It is the mass exodus of July and the quiet surrender of August. Sometime around the first week of July, the cities empty. Paris, Lyon, Marseille—they hand their keys to the tourists and sigh with relief. The usual frantic pace of la rentrée (back to school) feels like a distant memory. In its place is the bouchon (traffic jam) on the A7 highway heading south. Here is to
And they are, quite simply, everything.